TVF Resource Center

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

 

Jersey is the workhorse knit of modern apparel. It’s a single‑knit structure that’s soft, stretchy, and ideal for t‑shirts, casual dresses, and many athleisure tops. It’s typically made on a circular knitting machine, producing fabric with a smooth “face” and a slightly more textured “back.”

For most people, jersey is what “knit fabric” feels like in a favorite tee: soft, flexible, and easy to wear. For product teams, it’s a versatile construction that can be tuned in weight, fiber, and stretch to cover a huge range of programs.

Jersey is produced on a single needle bed (often on a circular machine) using knit stitches in each needle, course after course. The face shows distinct vertical wales, while the back shows more of the horizontal courses. This structural imbalance gives jersey excellent width‑wise stretch but also causes raw edges to curl and can lead to spirality if the process is not well controlled.

Jersey behavior depends heavily on:

  • Fiber: Cotton for breathability and softness; polyester for durability and print performance; blends for balance; spandex for added stretch.
  • Gauge and weight: Finer gauges and lighter GSMs for drapey tops; heavier constructions for more coverage and durability.
  • Finishing: Different finishing techniques may affect hand, shrinkage, and twist.

Controlling quality, including twist, shrinkage, and pilling, sets jersey fabrics apart from each other
Key features of Jersey Knit Fabric

  • Soft, comfortable hand: Feels good against skin and drapes nicely, especially in lighter weights and blends.
  • Natural widthwise stretch: Loop structure provides comfort stretch even without spandex; spandex increases power and recovery.
  • Printfriendly surface: Smooth face is ideal for screen and digital printing.

Primary Applications for Jersey Knit Fabric

Tshirts and tops: From basic promotional tees to premium fashion tops.

Dresses and skirts: Especially casual styles that benefit from drape and movement.

Athleisure and active tops: When blended with polyester/spandex, jersey becomes a staple for performance shirts and light layers.

Loungewear and sleepwear: Soft, breathable jerseys in cotton and rayon/lyocell blends.